Women wear long braids under the hats, as their ancestors did. In the next towns we visited I noticed the repeated use of the hats, but differently. I later learned why.
It was an awakening. Everything started in the flight we took from Lima to Juliaca; you have to fly to Juliaca to then take a bus to Puno. We were only a few tourists in the plane, the vast majority of the passengers were locals. Upon boarding, I noticed a tiny elderly woman sitting in one of the first few seats of the plane.